B-Qā de Marsyas: A Quality Lebanese Mid-Range Wine That Tells a Timeless Tale
I wasn’t
always such an avid wine enthusiast. In fact, I didn’t enjoy my first glass of
vino until I was 21, attending a wine and cheese social hosted by my
university’s graduate department. I slugged it back as though it were fruit
juice.
When I moved
to Paris, wine became daily bread. Not only was it cheap and accessible,
undercutting the price of bottled water, but heck, when in France, do as the
French, right? They’ve only dedicated their entire lush soil to the cultivation
of grapevines, and wine types like Bordeaux and Beaujolais are actually named
for French regions. So you’d literally have to be living under a rock to ignore
the cornerstone place of wine in the French day-to-day.
Believe it or
not, Lebanon has honed my appreciation of the grape derivative by huge strides.
Over the past decade, the country has seen a proliferation of vineyards from as
north as the hills of Batroun to as south as the perches of Jezzine, and that’s
besides the fertile Bekaa valley where the majority of wineries cultivate their
grapes.
B-Qā de Marsyas |
Introducing Château Marsyas & the Saadé Family
There are
presently three dozen active wineries, and one that I’ve highlighted in
recent months, as its prominence climbs to international heights, is Château
Marsyas. Owned
by brothers Karim and Sandro Saadé, Marsyas was the dream of their father
Johnny, who was eternally passionate about wine. Bordeaux was his favorite, and
in later years, he became mesmerized with Côtes du Rhone reds.
Brothers Sandro and Karim posing with father Johnny Saadé |
In 1998, the
family decided to transform dream into reality.
Carving out a wine enterprise in Bordeaux seemed the obvious choice, but a
eureka moment convinced them to turn their attention inward, on their Levantine
homeland.
They started
scouring for terroirs in both Syria and Lebanon, the countries of their family heritage.
Five years of study and patient reflection culminated in the selection of
virgin land in Lebanon’s Bekaa valley for Château Marsyas. Sister label Domaine
de Bargylus made its home in the ancient coastal city of Laodicea (modern
Lattakia). With “wine is rooted in earth” as their guiding principle and renowned
wine consultant Stephane Derenoncourt by their side, the Saadés embarked on
their new adventure.
Marsyas sits
nearly 1,000 meters above sea level, spread across 65 hectares of soil formed
from red clay and limestone. Pesticides and herbicides are rejected altogether,
and the soils are regularly maintained to avoid any compactions, allowing for
good oxygenation and the absorption of organic materials. Grapes are harvested
by hand, gathered in small crates and sorted twice before being fed by conveyor
to protect the fruit. The final product comprises 65% cabernet sauvignon, 20%
Syrah, 10% merlot, and 5% petit verdot.
B-Qā de Marsyas
The vineyards of Chateau Marsyas in the Bekaa Valley |
B-Qā de Marsyas
In 2013, the
estate witnessed a bigger yield, and it was then that the Saadé brothers
decided to kickstart the production of B-Qā de Marsyas, to be positioned among
quality Lebanese mid-range wines. The result of careful parcel selection for
younger vines, B-Qā brings together 70% cabernet sauvignon, 20% Syrah, and 10%
mourvèdre.
Thus, B-Qā, named in honor of the valley from which it issues forth,
shares the same vineyards of its elder brother Marsyas and is borne from the
same rigorous qualitative philosophy of manual work, green harvesting and low
yields. The difference is in the maturation time of 6-8 months in French
barrels, which fosters a beautiful aromatic balance and well-integrated
tannins.
With red
fruits on the nose followed by hints of earthy spices, B-Qā is elegant and
round, with a long and savory finish on fruits and freshness. Served chilled,
it vies with a white wine for its light crispness and smooth aging potential.
At room temperature, B-Qā’s relatively high alcohol content (15%) is palpable.
B-Qā de
Marsyas’ retail price is LBP 24,000 (USD 16), in contrast to the high-end
Chateau Marsyas wine, whose reds go for LBP 40,000 and whites, for LBP 35,000. Thus,
target clientele tend to be younger, sophisticated, wine-appreciating folks who
are at once price- and quality-conscious.
Food Pairing
What’s the
point of a great wine if you don’t know what complements it? For that, I headed
to one of my favorite venues in Beirut to pick at the brains of some of the
most brilliant minds in the industry.
At Le Gray’s
Indigo on the Roof, the resident sommelier treated us to a lesson in food
pairing, drawing on Executive Chef Darren Andow’s unmatched cuisine. On the
menu, a creamy goat cheese and beetroot salad garnished with green apple,
candied walnuts, and cress. Chèvre highlights the acidity of the wine, and the
rule of thumb with younger wines is to generally opt for lighter, silky
cheeses.
Creamy goat cheese mousse with beetroot and green apple |
A wild
mushroom risotto with barely-there truffle oil does not overwhelm the taste of
B-Qā, but a citrus or heavily truffé number
would. Best to stick to the mushroom and asparagus varieties.
Wild mushroom risotto |
At room
temperature, B-Qā de Marsyas works wondrously with rich, juicy meats like duck
and veal, so we gorged on roasted canard
à l’orange with carrot purée, Asian pears and gratin potatoes, followed by
char-grilled veal chops with Portobello mushrooms and Roquefort cream.
Duck confit with puréed carrots |
Char-grilled veal chop |
In its chilled
state, the red potion spellbinds with braised beef short ribs accompanied by
garlic potato purée and red wine sauce.
Braised beef short ribs atop creamy potato purée in a red wine sauce |
When it comes
to seafood, lean white fish washes down well with room-temperature B-Qā,
whereas the fattier types (e.g., salmon) are better suited to the chilled wine.
Bottom line with food and wine compatibility: neither should affect the taste profile of the other. The wine should only flush and cleanse the palate, all whilst leaving the taste buds intact.
Closing Remarks
Château
Marsyas and younger brother B-Qā give us Lebanese every reason to be “so damn
proud,” as Andrew Jefford of Decanter.com put it. Built on the tenets of
perseverance, hard work, and commitment to the country’s future despite the
tumult surrounding it, these wines are steeped in symbolism.
YOU READ IT HERE FIRST: B-Qā will soon be welcoming a white wine to its family, due out this year, which means B-Qā will comprise one red and one white per vintage! I cannot wait to sample the new millésime.
YOU READ IT HERE FIRST: B-Qā will soon be welcoming a white wine to its family, due out this year, which means B-Qā will comprise one red and one white per vintage! I cannot wait to sample the new millésime.
A wine so
versatile that it can be enjoyed summer or winter, chilled or at room
temperature, with a host of meats, cheeses, and fish. A wine that is at once
luxurious and affordable, young and elegant, light and bold.
Rooted in the Levant, the Johnny R. Saadé family translates its passion for vines into the creation of Château Marsyas in the southern part of the Bekaa Valley. Renowned for its wine culture, this ancient land reveals itself to be an exceptional place for the production of a great wine in line with the highest quality standards. Located at an altitude of 1,000 meters, Château Marsyas is a family initiative founded on the search for excellence.
Hello Beirutista,
ReplyDeleteI am not a fan of Marsyas and B Qa I found them very light to my taste, I prefer BAAL! Iam a big fan of Le Grey, I've been to Indigo many times, the food is fine and the service was terrible. Hope they can improve the service in their restaurants and in the hotel as well.
Hi Johnny, that's too bad! That "lightness" is exactly what I adore in Marsyas/B-Qa. Do you usual savor the reds chilled or at room temperature? You'll appreciate their boldness and presence of alcohol content when they're not chilled. Also try sister winery Domaine de Bargylus, whose composition is predominantly Syrah.
DeleteWith respect to Le Gray, I'm sorry to hear you've had less than impressive experiences with their service. Please shoot me an email with your contact info, and I'll ask the marketing manager to connect with you.