Babel Dbayeh Unequaled in Lebanese Cuisine & Hospitality
Since I made Beirut home five years ago, I'd been hearing
about the superb cuisine at Babel. Even the fortress-like appearance of the
restaurant beckoned me. But there was never an occasion to visit, and five
years slipped from my grasp unconsciously.
Monday
finally found me tucked in to a comfortable armchair perched by the window,
overlooking the towering olive tree in Babel's atrium and the
many staggered levels of seating. Outside, a spacious terrace accommodates al fresco dining under the Mediterranean moon.
An olive tree winds upward inside Babel's walls |
No number of rave reviews could have
prepared me for the experience, which proved to be nearly faultless. I decided to refrain from snapping photos (well, except one, above), because I wanted to enjoy every minute of culinary euphoria free of frames, flashes, and fuss. Readers, you'll have to feel your way through this review with my words and your imagination.
From
the complimentary lavash bread served with a pesto-thyme-olive oil dip, to the
seasoned kernels, chilled raw almonds, and pumpkin seeds placed between every pair of guests and replenished bountifully, the evening was off to a smooth start.
Silky dunes of hummus; slightly sweet and pulpous baba ghanouj ("Moutabbal Ajami") crowned with diced tomatoes; creamy "tajen" with chunks of white fish blended into its paste; pillowy "batata
harra" with just the right dose of piquancy; kibbeh pie oozing with melted
mozzarella ("maajoua"); kibbeh cups cradling minced meat and cooked cherries ("mwaradde"); tender veal cubes that melt effortlessly on your tongue. Everything was surreal. Dessert, too, left little to be desired, layering date cake, date ice cream, and date roll-up in one enviable "tamriyyeh."
I'd only meddle with two dishes. The fattouch was excessively acidic, owing to both sumac
and pomegranate molasses. I'd dial down the lemon factor to spotlight the bold flavors of the fresh, crisp veggies.
Also, the chicken
baklawa could benefit from a saccharin touch, free from the honey dressing that accompanies it. I'd have preferred it like the
Moroccan pastilla, dusted with powdered sugar and deriving sweet notes from
orange blossom water, sultanas, and slivers of almond.
Beyond
food, service is impeccable. The wait staff are quick to please, and I love how
they remove soiled napkins from the table with tongs. Fancy.
In addition, one dish featuring Babel's signature raw meat collection ("nayeh moutammameh") mistakenly descended upon our table, and when we let the waiter know, he nodded silently and left to confer with his manager. Seconds later, he returned, and rather than retract it, he offered it on the house (er, castle). Classy and generous gesture!
Babel
is without doubt the pinnacle of Lebanese cuisine in Lebanon, and I'd definitely
bookmark it for those special, rare occasions. You'll be hard-pressed to find its equal.
Babel
Dbayeh
04-546546
You have to try the fattet 2iraydis (shrimp) at Babel Bay in Zaitunay. DELICIOUS.
ReplyDeleteI discovered fattet shrimp last week at a fish restaurant called Feluka in Beirut Sporting Club, and it was a revelation! I can't imagine how delicious it must be at Babel Bay.
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